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Lunch at Viande with Chef Pete Goffe-Wood

12 Sep

Chef Pete Goffe-Wood at the bar counter, Viande Restaurant, Grande Roche. Photography by Charles Russel.

 

After three decades of offshore ownership, Paarl’s iconic Grande Roche Hotel is back in South African hands. The hotel has been acquired by entrepreneurs Hansie and Theresa Britz. Both born and raised in Paarl, the couple shares a life-long association with the Grande Roche as most locals do. This historic five-star property at the foot of Paarl Mountain has recently been fully transformed to return it’s status as one of the Cape’s premier destinations.

Apart from a complete overhaul for the hotel side of Grande Roche, the restaurant previously known as ‘Bosman’s’ has also been totally refreshed to become a more accessible destination: ‘Viande’ is the brainchild of Pete Goffe-Wood, a respected and loved television personality (ex-Masterchef judge), author and consultant chef. Pete wasn’t looking to start another restaurant, but when he heard the new owners’ passion for the hotel he realised it was something he could get behind. “I loved the fact that they wanted to make Grande Roche accessible to locals again, and the more their vision unfolded the more I realised I wanted to be a part of it. It’s been wonderful to see this property given the love and respect and investment it deserves.”

The contemporary new interior of Viande Restaurant at Grande Roche.

 

The culinary-themed 3D artworks by Mitch Mitchell of Scotch & Sofa by Mitch and the Machine, featuring a hog’s head here.

 

Chef Pete is now responsible for all food and beverage operations across Grande Roche. With Viande becoming a major draw card for the estate, Goffe-Wood worked with interior designer Francois du Plessis to completely re-imagine the interiors, adding a more contemporary and approachable feel to the new restaurant while acknowledging the heritage of the building. Gunmetal grey walls are offset by the landmark crystal chandeliers, bespoke monochrome wallpaper creates an eye-catching scene along one wall, while wooden floors brighten the space. Furniture is by design studio Houtlander, and there’s Goffe-Wood’s quirky humour in the culinary-themed 3D artworks by Mitch Mitchell of Scotch & Sofa by Mitch and the Machine: a hog’s head, kitchen scale and a burly pair of chef’s arms clutching cleavers.

That modern approach is mirrored on the brasserie-style menu, where meat is unashamedly the star. Viande means ‘meat’ in French – an apt title for this meat-focused restaurant offering contemporary nose-to-tail dining. On the menu you will find items like pan-fried calves liver, slow roasted pork belly, seared hangar steak, 28-day dry aged prime rib and roasted free range chicken. Chef Pete and his capable kitchen crew are even curing and smoking new delicacies, with selected cuts dry-aged on site in imported German meat-fridges.

Mobolletjies, ciabatta, beef fat and flavoured butter.

 

My choice for a glass of wine to go with my lunch: Underoaks Three Twenty 2015 – a premium white blend, lightly wooded.

 

I was invited to experience Viande for lunch, and want to share my photographs with you. I’ve been a fan of Chef Pete’s food for many years, having tasted a few of his nose-to-tail menus before, also including the best vanilla custard I’ve ever tasted (yes, he makes fabulous desserts too). Chef Pete has a knack of putting a menu together that will surely be a hit with many. Items like traditional bouillabaisse are hard to find on menus these days, and although it’s a surprise to find it on a meat driven menu like Viande’s, it was my choice for a main course. Served with a bright yellow rouille, it was the perfect cherry on top. For starters I went for a classic mushroom risotto (relatively easy to get right, difficult to get immaculate) and it delivered in every way possible. For dessert, I tried the profiteroles – something Pete added to the menu from childhood memories. I also have strong childhood memories of eating custard-filled eclairs topped with a runny chocolate icing, so having these beautiful profiteroles freshly topped with warm chocolate, filled with delicious French-style vanilla custard and grilled banana was a joyful ending to an extraordinary meal.

Viande at The Grande Roche, Paarl, is a bright new beacon on the highly competitive Winelands dining scene.

Starter: Wild mushroom risotto, parmesan & gremolata.

 

Main course: Bouillabaisse with toasted ciabatta & rouille. (The rouille only arrived after I tucked in, so I didn’t get a photograph of it. It was the highlight of this dish – absolutely delicious. This dish is not on the regular menu, but will be featuring now and then on the set menu for Sundays.)

 

Dessert: White and milk chocolate profiteroles.

 

The view from Viande’s entrance.

Viande is open 7 days a week for breakfast between 07h00-10h00, lunch between 12h00-15h00 and dinner from 19h00-22h00, with Sunday brunch on the cards as well. Book online (Dineplan app) or by calling Grande Roche on 021-863 5100, or emailing viande@granderoche.co.za. Starters vary from R90-R120, mains from R120-R250, and desserts from R80-R120 (click here for a menu).

The Grande Roche Hotel is located at 1 Plantasie Street, Paarl.

#Viande #GrandeRoche #GRANDgranderoche

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The new spring menu at Tokara with Chef Carolize Coetzee

6 Sep

The beautiful Tokara Restaurant, Helshoogte, Stellenbosch. (Picture from tokara.co.za.)

 

Following a three-week stint at Cosme Restaurant in New York (ranked 23rd on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019) under the watchful eye of superstar Chef Daniela Soto-Innes,  Tokara Restaurant Executive Chef Carolize Coetzee has found global inspiration for her new ingredient-driven spring menu.

Chef Carolize Coetzee with Chef Daniela Soto-Innes of Cosme in New York. Photo supplied.

 

I was invited to experience a taste of this new menu at a media luncheon a week ago, and had the pleasure of talking to Chef Carolize about her New York experience – a dream trip that was initiated because of her deep admiration for Chef Daniela Soto-Innes (at 28 years old, the youngest ever winner of Female Chef of the Year 2019). She was inspired by how Daniela manages to present traditional Mexican produce, heirloom recipes and ancient techniques in a refined and modern context.

Chef Carolize’s spring menu is filled with ingredients unique to the Simonsberg area of Stellenbosch, fresh produce growing in Tokara’s organic vegetable garden and playful flavour combinations. Fragrant Cape flavours such as nasturtium, kapokbos, renosterbos and sorrel are infused in classically prepared dishes alongside broad beans, asparagus and stone fruit.

Chef Carolize Coetzee joined us at the table, seated next to me. It was a joy to hear more about her New York adventure – a destination that I would love to visit.

 

For starters, I tried the oyster and ‘viskop’ broth with Chinese cabbage, peach & caviar, as well as the spinach, renosterbos and cured egg yolk. For mains, the smoked duck breast, parsnip, whisky
and hazelnut shitake was a feast of nutty & umami flavours. For dessert with a twist, the Spanish almond cake with hibiscus and lemon posset, hibiscus meringue, almond streusel and Spanish nougat ice-cream is utter indulgence and a combination of some of my favourite flavours all in one dish. Chef Carolize’s female touch shines through in her food, and this new spring menu is a celebration of delicate natural colours, clever textures and deep flavours.

“We often tend to shy away from finding inspiration in revisiting our own culinary history and rather try to imitate what’s going on elsewhere in the world. As Daniela and her mentor Enrique Olvera remained loyal in their pursuit of the essence of Mexican cookery, I’d like to remind our guests with each new menu of something they may have forgotten about our collective South African culinary memory.

My aim is for my food to have a real sense of place and that our guests should leave with an indelible impression of our restaurant at the foot of the Simonsberg Mountain. That impression should not only concern the food, wine, views and architecture, but the joy and enthusiasm of all the people cooking, serving and cleaning behind the scenes,” says Chef Carolize.

She was particularly inspired by the family-style kitchen culture at Cosme. “Chef Daniela has a real connection with her staff from diverse backgrounds and a multitude of different countries. Every morning she takes the time to personally check in with each and every member of her team, asking about their well being and the well being of their families. To her, family is everything. The Cosme culture has changed the way in which I see the industry. You can create your own ‘vibe’ and culture within a kitchen with joy and respect right at the core,” says Chef Carolize.

With both chefs being 28 years old, Chef Carolize resonated deeply with Chef Daniela’s connection to her heritage, family recipes, and generations of woman cooking together in the kitchen. These food memories are also at the heart of Chef Carolize’s cooking. Take a look at my lunch experience in pictures:

Garden vegetables, vetkoek & dips to start with.

 

Tokara’s incredible wines complemented Chef Carolize’s menu in every way.

 

Oyster and ‘viskop’ broth with Chinese cabbage, peach & caviar.

 

Spinach, renosterbos and cured egg yolk.

 

My favourite wine of the day, Tokara’ Director’s Reserve 2015 – a premium white blend.

 

Smoked duck breast, parsnip, whisky, hazelnut & shitake.

 

Spanish almond cake with hibiscus and lemon posset, hibiscus meringue, almond streusel and Spanish nougat ice-cream.

 

Delicious petit fours to end with.

 

Tokara Restaurant & Olive Estate is a landmark destination in the Stellenbosch Winelands framed by
spectacular views and contemporary art.

Tokara Restaurant is open for lunch from Tuesday to Sunday (Monday to Sunday from 7
October) and for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday. Chef Carolize’s signature six-course dinner
menu runs from Wednesday, 4 September, with her new a la carte menu from Wednesday, 18
September.

For reservations call Tel: 021 885 2550, e-mail reservations@tokara.com or
visit www.tokararestaurant.co.za

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A weekend at the Robertson Slow Festival, in pictures

20 Aug

The beautiful facade of Bon Courage Estate – one of the estates that we visited as part of the Robertson Slow Food & Wine Festival 2019.

 

On the weekend of 9-11 August this year, we were invited to visit the 13th annual Robertson Slow Food & Wine Festival – a celebration of the many experiences that the Robertson Wine Valley and Route 62 has to offer. Receiving a tailor-made itinerary, our weekend experience included visits to Rooiberg, Springfield, Esona, Arendsig, De Wetshof, Jan Harmsgat, Bon Courage, Excelsior, Viljoensdrift and Rietvallei, as well as two nights accommodation at Arendsig Family Cottages.

Two years ago, we visited the same festival and was absolutely blown away by the quality of the wines, the authentic country-style hospitality, and our discovery of hidden gems in the area. This year was no different – the Robertson Wine Valley remains one of our favourite destinations in the Western Cape. This “slow” festival offers unique experiences for small groups at a time at various estates where the owners, wine makers and chefs show off their best. It is a valley filled with so much to explore and I urge you to do the same. Take a look at our weekend in pictures with some comments as captions. Our 8 year-old daughter came along on this trip, proving that it is indeed a family friendly adventure for everybody.

Rooiberg Winery is well known for their landmark massive red chair displayed next to the road – the “biggest red chair in Africa”.

 

My favourite white wine of the day at Rooiberg – their Reserve Chardonnay 2016. A full bodied, complex wine with bright fruit flavours. Splendid!

 

A tasting of all five Pinotages available at Rooiberg. They produce quite a large range of wines – there’s something for everyone.

 

 

Purchase your “love lock” from Rooiberg and fasten it to their grid for a cheeky romantic moment (or just some family fun!).

 

Next up, a stop at Springfield Estate. This is their wine tasting deck overlooking a beautiful pond and lush lawns.

 

One of my favourite wines of the day from Springfield, their unfiltered Méthode Ancienne Chardonnay 2016. Nuances of lime, Cointreau and oranges – a big wine with classical character.

 

All tastings at Springfield come with a complimentary tray of bread, olives, olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The perfect way to unwind and enjoy the beautiful views. Thank you Lana!

 

The cellar walls and doors at Springfield are incredibly beautiful – probably the most picturesque facility in the Robertson Wine Valley.

 

 

Eating a quick bite at Esona before doing another tasting – their cheese & meat platters are generous and delicious (I asked for a very small bite to eat, the bistro platter menu items are lot bigger and more varied).

 

The “Taste the Difference” experience at Esona‘s underground cellar facility, where you will experience wine, preserves, art and music. Thank you Hirchill!

 

Booking into one of the self catering family cottages at Arendsig. This rustic cottage has a built-in braai in the kitchen, two bedrooms (one twin, one double), two bathrooms and a living area. Beautiful tranquil setting right between the vineyards. Thank you Lizelle & Lourens!

 

This is the late afternoon view to the left from the cottage stoep at Arendsig Family Cottages.

 

Arriving at the spectacular De Wetshof Wine Estate for a special wine maker’s dinner. Thank you Johann & team!

 

Long table dinner preparations – waiting eagerly for the guests to be seated at De Wetshof. Food by Mimosa.

 

One of the most impressive wines of the Robertson Slow weekend: the De Wetshof Bateleur Chardonnay 2016. Simply spectacular.

 

Starter at the De Wetshof winemaker’s dinner: Teriyaki & ginger salmon tartare, zesty daikon & grilled pak choy salad, lemon grass & lime drizzle. Served with De Wetshof Lilya Dry Rosé.

 

Entrée at the De Wetshof winemaker’s dinner: Butternut squash raviola, gorgonzola, fresh herbs & sherry reduction, toasted almonds. Served with the De Wetshof Finesse/Lesca Chardonnay 2018 and 2015.

 

Main course at the De Wetshof winemaker’s dinner: Rolled leg of lamb with garlic, thyme & lime, braised honeyed baby carrots & fennel with salsa verde, golden baby potatoes. Served with De Wetshof Bateleur Chardonnay 2016 and De Wetshof Naissance Cabernet Sauvignon 2017.

 

Dessert at the De Wetshof winemaker’s dinner: Rooibos pannacotta, strawberries, caramel twirl, wild malva anglaise. Served with De Wetshof MCC 2009.

 

Welcoming the new day on a crisp Saturday morning at Jan Harmsgat Country House’s restaurant outside Swellendam.

Dishing up from the generous breakfast buffet spread at Jan Harmsgat Country House. What a great way to start the day.

 

Getting a special “breakfast dessert” from the kitchen at Jan Harmsgat – chocolate quince tart with homemade pomegranate syrup & pomegranate ice cream (leftovers from the previous evening’s special dinner). Thank you Francois, it was spectacular!

 

The beautiful wintry pecan nut groves at Jan Harmsgat. This is definitely a destination where I’d like to spend more time. Stunning accommodation facilities too.

 

Next stop: Bon Courage for some epic vintage MCC. This is their Jacques Bruére Blanc de Blanc 2011.

 

My friend Elmarie Berry tasting some limited release red wines by Bon Courage at a table next to us. Thank you Lee-Irvine for the great tasting presentation.

 

The iconic teal blue velvet interior at Bon Courage.

 

Winemaker/owner Lourens van der Westhuizen, personally presenting a tasting of his single vineyard boutique wines at Arendsig‘s tasting area. What an exceptional range of wines. Thank you Lourens!

 

Five of Arendsig‘s unique single varietal wines (separate batches individually bottled). For serious wine lovers, this tasting is a must.

 

Starter at Excelsior Estate‘s 5-course winemaker’s dinner: Smoked snoek risotto. Thank you Peter de Wet & team!

 

Main course: Lamb shank with sweet potato mash & seasonal vegetables. Part of Excelsior Estate’s 5-course winemaker’s dinner.

 

Our Sunday morning started with an adventure on the water: a tranquil boat cruise on the Breede River with Viljoensdrift River Cruises. Thank you skipper Johan!

 

A river view from the boat with Viljoensdrift River Cruises.

 

The welcoming fire place at Viljoensdrift‘s wine tasting area.

 

One of our favourite wines of the day, and perhaps best value for money at R100 per bottle: the Viljoensdrift River Gradeur Cabernet Sauvignon 2015.

 

Our last stop: visiting the pristine Rietvallei Wine Estate for a lazy lunch. Thank you Kobus, Elizabeth & team!

 

One of Rietvallei’s well-known premium white wines from their heritage collection, the JMB Chardonnay 2017. We also tasted the Cabernet Franc 2014 and it was incredible.

 

On the menu: various platters, boeries & bowls for lunch at Rietvallei. It may seem like a humble chalkboard menu, but it was probably our most delicious meal of the weekend. Absolutely scrumptious!

 

Rietvallei‘s cheese & charcuterie platter at the Robertson Slow Food & Wine Festival 2019: toasted bread, various artisanal cheeses, salami & cured sausages, cole slaw, beetroot, pickles, olives and green figs.

 

Rietvallei‘s Crazy Karoo Braai platter: Pork belly, brisket, braaied mielies, toasted bread, crispy carrots, pickles, sauces, cole slaw – an absolute delight!

 

The pristine lawns at Rietvallei, with wooden seating and umbrellas, and beautiful views. One can seriously get stuck here, in a great way!

 

Art exhibition at Rietvallei.

 

Live art happening at Rietvallei.

 

Make sure to follow the Robertson Wine Valley on Facebook for updates on their festival in 2020 – you wouldn’t want to miss out. Thank you to everyone in the valley for a fantastic weekend, we’ll be back for sure.

Contact the Robertson Slow Food & Wine Festival:

Tel: 023 626 3167

Event Enquiries: admin@robertsonwinevalley.com

Media / PR Inquiries: media@robertsonwinevalley.com

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Cape Mediterranean: the way we love to eat – IN STORES NOW

10 Jul

It is with the greatest pleasure that I share the arrival of my first cookbook with you! It is titled Cape Mediterranean: the way we love to eat, published by Penguin Random House / Struik Lifestyle, with photography by my dear friend Tasha Seccombe. The book is available from this week in most South African book stores as well as online (Loot.co.za, Bidorbuy.co.za, Amazon.com, ExclusiveBooks.co.za etc.) and as an e-book at a recommended retail price of R360.

Writing a cookbook (hopefully one of many to come) has been one of my biggest aspirations for many years. In June 2018 I finally approached the legendary Linda de Villiers from PRH with my concept. Apart from agreeing to publish my book, she and her team have made this process the smoothest and most pleasant that I could have ever wished for and I am so grateful for their belief in my concept. It was a privilege to produce this book with my incredibly talented friend Tasha Seccombe who photographed & styled while I cooked and co-styled – I couldn’t have done it without her. With ceramics, fabrics, background textures and props provided by our friends from Hertex, Hertex HAUS, Mervyn Gers & Southern Art Ceramics, this book has a very unique local look and feel.

A Cape Mediterranean spread, featuring green-on-green salad, loaded hummus, fennel & apple salad, pork & port terrine, trout fillets and panzanella. Photography by Tasha Seccombe. From my book, Cape Mediterranean – the way we love to eat.

 

So let’s talk about the book’s theme. Cape Mediterranean food/cooking is a contemporary South African hybrid cuisine strongly influenced by the broader Mediterranean basin (Southwestern Europe, Middle East and northern Africa, surrounding the Mediterranean Sea) that has developed naturally from within the Western Cape due to the inherent Mediterranean climate and the abundant occurrence of classic Mediterranean-style local produce. It is not defined by race or ethnicity. Although ‘Mediterranean cuisine’ is still a term that isn’t easily defined and varies across the wider basin, it is mostly accepted to be driven by olive oil, wheat, grapes (wine), fruit, vegetables and seafood, also including dairy and meat. The more well-known Cape Malay, Cape Dutch and indigenous African styles of cooking are well settled within South Africa.

With this book, I would like to add another Cape hybrid to our rainbow repertoire: contemporary Cape Mediterranean (Cape-Med) – a South African style of cooking and entertaining influenced by one of the oldest and arguably also the healthiest cuisines in the world.

What are the biggest differences between traditional ‘Mediterranean’ and ‘Cape Mediterranean’? In South Africa, we traditionally consume more meat than in the Mediterranean basin. Also, our exceptional local olive oil industry is still very young compared to the Mediterranean basin, which has an olive producing history dating back to 2600 BCE, according to some sources. Few of us know how to make fresh homemade pasta or gnocchi (we mostly prefer the quick and easy store-bought dried versions), although they are both very popular items on restaurant menus. However, our culture of alfresco dining because of good weather is shared, as is our love of good wine and an active outdoor lifestyle. This book focuses on contemporary South African gatherings, not heritage food nor nostalgia. You won’t find any twists on milk tart, chakalaka or bobotie. Cape Mediterranean cooking is a natural South African interpretation of classic Mediterranean-style cooking, celebrating our Western Cape-based Mediterranean climate, worldclass local produce and dedicated producers.

May this book bring many hours of joy and togetherness around your table! Please tag me with #CapeMed if you’re sharing your cooking experiences from this book on social media.

I’d like to share one of my favourite recipes from the book with you: a festive pavlova with lemon curd & passion fruit. Lemons are one of the cornerstone ingredients for Mediterranean & Cape Mediterranean cooking – they’re listed in more than 40% of the book’s recipes. This specific recipe was created in collaboration with Lemongold – the newly launched cousins of the much loved Clemengold premium citrus brand. These seedless, thin-skinned, extra juicy lemons are perfect for making lemon curd, for cooking, for squeezing, for juicing etc, without the hassle of removing seeds. Lemongolds are grown widely in SA and forms part of Woolworths’ “Farming for the Future” sustainability programme.

A classic pavlova topped with whipped cream, lemon curd and fresh passion fruit. Photography by Tasha Seccombe. From my book Cape Mediterranean – the way we love to eat.

 

Ingredients: (serves 8)

6 XL egg whites (save the yolks and make *lemon curd)
400 g caster sugar (extra fine sugar)
10 ml (2 teaspoon) white vinegar or lemon juice
15 ml (1 tablespoon) corn flour
1 teaspoons vanilla extract (or scraped seeds of a vanilla pod)
250 ml fresh cream, whipped
about 1 cup *lemon curd, for topping (see page xxx)
pulp of about 4 fresh passion fruits

Method:

Pre-heat oven to 150 C. Whisk egg whites in a large bowl (with an electric whisk or stand mixer with whisk attachment) until soft peaks form. Gradually add castor sugar to egg whites, small amounts at a time, whisking constantly until the mixture is stiff and glossy. Add the vinegar/lemon juice, cornstarch and vanilla and mix well.
Dot a big roasting tray with some of the mixture then place a sheet of baking paper on top (sticking like glue). Pour the pavlova mixture on the tray and shape with a spoon or spatula into a round shape with a diameter of about 23 cm, like a cake (draw a circle on the back of your baking paper, if necessary). The mixture will rise a bit to the sides, so leave enough space. Place in the oven and immediately turn down the temperature to 120 C. Bake for an hour and 15 minutes, then turn the oven off and leave to cool (in the oven) for about 2,5 hours without opening the oven door.

To serve: Carefully remove the baking paper from the bottom of pavlova and transfer to a serving dish (it will have a few cracks, that’s 100%). Top with whipped cream and lemon curd, swirling the cream and curd together softly. Top with lashings of passion fruit pulp and serve at once, sliced.

Note: Pavlova must be assembled just before serving as it becomes soggy on standing. Store the unassembled baked pavlova on the baking tray covered with a sealed large plastic bag. Can be baked a day ahead if stored airtight.

For the lemon curd:

You only need three lemons to make 500 ml (2 cups) lemon curd. It’s a phenomenal spread for cakes, cookies and pavlova, and will last for at least a week in the refrigerator, once opened.  I usually make my lemon curd with four whole eggs, but when I’ve made a pavlova using six egg whites, I use the remaining six yolks instead of whole eggs. Use whatever you have on hand.

Ingredients: (makes 500 ml/2 cups)

peeled rind and juice of 3 medium-size lemons / Lemongolds
250 ml (1 cup) white sugar
180 g soft butter
4 XL eggs (or 6 XL egg yolks)
a pinch salt

Method:

Place the peeled rind and sugar in a food processor and process until you get a very fine, yellow, grainy mixture. Add the butter and process until light and creamy. Add the eggs and salt and mix well, scraping the sides of the bowl. Transfer to a small saucepan over very low heat. Stir continuously while it heats up (take care, it burns easily). The mixture will at first become runnier as the butter starts to melt, and then it will thicken again as the eggs form a glossy custard. Never let it reach boiling point. If at any stage it looks like it’s burning, remove from the heat at once and strain to remove any brown bits. Remove from the heat and transfer to a glass jar with a lid. Cool and refrigerate until ready to use – the mixture will continue to thicken on cooling. (Note: For an ultra-silky result, strain the hot mixture before cooling.) Best served at room temperature – spread it on cakes or cookies, or serve with meringues (Eaton mess-style) and on pavlova.

Note: In this photograph, I used freshly made lemon curd that has not cooled fully – that’s why it has a more runny consistency. Your lemon curd will be thick and spreadable once refrigerated.

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Discovering Anthonij Rupert’s homegrown Altima Black Truffles

19 Jun

An exclusive locally grown 100g Altima truffle, as shown to us at the Truffle Lunch at Anthonij Rupert Wyne.

 

A few weeks ago, I was invited to experience the brand new black truffles cultivated on the cool climate Altima Estate in the Elandskloof valley outside Villiersdorp – a farm that forms part of Anthonij Rupert Wyne in Franschhoek. Anthonij Rupert Wyne is the first producer of these rare Périgord truffles in South Africa.  Oak trees were planted on Altima Estate in 2010, their roots inoculated with truffle spores. It would be only 7 years later that the team at Anthonij Rupert would find that their patience has paid off, when they harvested their first truffle.

Truffle hunter (also known as a Trufelau) Hanene van Dyk, who learnt her craft in Piedmont, Italy, works closely with her specially-trained Lagotto Romagnolo dogs to hunt for the truffles. Truffles are seasonal and will only be available during May – July this year.

The Périgord truffle, or French black truffle is known as the world’s most expensive edible mushroom. Grown originally in France, Italy and Spain, it is now also being cultivated in other areas like Australia, New Zealand and Wales. It is revered world wide by culinary enthusiasts as a rare winter delicacy. They have a distinctively aromatic smell and can reach a size of up to 10 cm in diameter (although size doesn’t govern quality, in this case). Truffles are usually imported to South Africa at around R60/g, but the value of these local truffles is roughly estimated at around R40/g. To give you an idea, this truffle pictured above weighs around 100g, and is worth around R4000. An important note is that Anthonij Rupert Wyne doesn’t intend to sell these truffles yet, but truffle enthusiasts will be able to enjoy these delicate treasures at Anthonij Rupert Estate‘s exclusive Truffle Lunches at R950/person, including a wine pairing. The next four-course lunch will be taking place on the 28th of June 2019 (book here). To ensure an exclusive dining experience, each luncheon will be kept to a maximum of 10 people.

For those who want to see exactly where the truffles are grown, there is also an exclusive Altima Truffle Experience and Tour available at R2500 per person, including a guided tour of Altima Estate,  the tasting of 3 estate wines, an introductory talk by Altima Truffle hunter Hanene van Dyk, an opportunity to see how the truffles are discovered and harvested, return transport from Altima Estate back to Anthonij Rupert Estate, tasting of their truffle products produced from Altima’s truffles, a 4 course lunch inspired by Altima truffles, Cape of Good Hope Wine pairing through lunch, with focus on wines produced from Altima vines. The next experience is happening on the 28th of June 2019. Book here.

Take a look at my experience in pictures. It was the first time that I had the opportunity to taste a fresh truffle – I’ve only experienced it as infused truffle oil. The taste is very different to truffle oil – earthy, mushroomy, almost like a matured cheese and absolutely delicious. You can actually smell the truffles right through the soil (after the dogs have indicated that there is a truffle to be found in a certain spot). The truffle hunter then makes the careful decision to either leave the truffle in tact if it isn’t ripe yet, or harvest the truffle if it is fully ripened. Truffles must then be used within about 2 weeks.

Seeing the passion of the team that has successfully cultivated these truffles (9 years later!) on Altima Estate was a very special experience. Sharing in the fruits of their labour was an absolute privilege – thank you very much to Gidi, Hanene and everyone from Anthonij Rupert Wyne who made this memorable experience possible.

For more information or to book your truffle lunch/experience, click here.

The breathtaking views from the lookout point at Altima Estate, Elandskloof valley.

 

Gidi offering us a taste of the Cape of Good Hope range of wines by Anthonij Rupert Wyne.

 

One of the younger truffle hunting dogs.

 

One of the more experienced truffle hunting dogs.

 

Hanene follows her dog who will point out a truffle shortly.

 

The dog has pointed out a truffle, and Hanene tells us more about how she will go about unearthing it.

 

Careful not to damage the truffle, Hanene shows us the tip of a truffle peeking out from underneath the soil.

 

The menu for our exclusive truffle lunch.

 

Amuse bouche – truffle croquette.

 

First course: Asparagus, soft boiled quail’s egg, honey pickled golden baby beetroot, truffle caviar & vinaigrette.

 

Second course: prawn ravioli, saffron cream and truffle carpaccio.

 

Third course: estate raised black angus steak, thick cut chips, truffle butter.

 

Fourth course: golden paradise tartlet.

 

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The winter set menu at Cavalli

11 Jun

Welcome drink offerend on arrival: Cavalli Capriole MCC (100% Chardonnay).

 

I was recently invited to experience the winter set menu with wine pairings at Cavalli Estate on the R44 between Stellenbosch and Somerset West. Cavalli is a pristine destination for dining, but also for tasting and buying wine, viewing their equestrian facilities, or taking a stroll through their contemporary art gallery and remarkable collection of rugby & sporting memorabilia.

A sample 2019 winter set menu (with vegetarian option) at Cavalli looks like this (subject to change, according to the seasonality/availability of produce):

WINTER SET MENU R350
with Cavalli wine pairing R425

AMUSE BOUCHE

FIRST COURSE
Slow- cooked local octopus, fermented black garlic
aioli, apple, squid ink crisp, radish, fynbos dressing
Cavalli ‘Pink Pony’ Grenache Noir 2015

SECOND COURSE
Barley & mushrooms, parmesan custard
Cavalli ‘Vendetta’ Viognier/Verdelho 2016

THIRD COURSE
Confit duck leg, orange, fennel marmalade,
mustard pommes mousseline, black kale
Cavalli ‘Nightmare’ Shiraz/Grenache 2015

FOURTH COURSE
Tonka bean crème caramel, palmier
Coffee/Tea

PETIT FOURS

VEGETARIAN WINTER SET MENU R300
with Cavalli wine pairing R375

AMUSE BOUCHE

FIRST COURSE
Parsnip, truffle & honey velouté, 65°c free range egg,
mushroom ragout, crispy enoki, smoked crème fraiche
Cavalli ‘Pink Pony’ Grenache Noir 2015

SECOND COURSE
Barley & mushrooms, parmesan custard
Cavalli ‘Vendetta’ Viognier/Verdelho 2016

THIRD COURSE
Pearl couscous risotto, red pepper, homemade
almond yoghurt, pickled naartjies, kale crisp
Cavalli ‘Nightmare’ Shiraz/Grenache 2015

FOURTH COURSE
Tonka bean crème caramel, palmier
Coffee/Tea

PETIT FOURS

Cavalli Restaurant takes full advantage of their remarkable setting. It’s a space bathed in natural light, with floor-to-ceiling glass doors opening out to a spacious terrace. Beyond the tables the views spill out across the farm dam, vineyards and paddocks; a scene framed by views of the distant Helderberg Mountains. 

Looking out from the restaurant terrace towards the equestrian facilities and the Helderberg mountains.

 

Head Chef Michael Deg has held the reins of the Cavalli kitchen since 2017, cementing the restaurant’s reputation for seasonal, sustainable cuisine. It is refined food without pretence, served within a world class setting.  For his winter menu this year, Chef Michael has created an enticing, affordable, 4-course food and wine pairing menu that will have you coming back for more. Considering the extras included in this menu (multiple amuse bouche, palate cleanser and petit fours) coupled with the service excellence and delicious wine pairings, this is one of the best fine dining winter deals the Winelands has to offer this winter.

Note: Althought chef Michael was on leave the day that we visited, his capable, talentede kitchen team provided all guests with a seamless dining experience.

I chose the vegetarian set menu, while my husband had the regular set menu (he opted for the international wine pairing too, an option that cost slightly more, but totally worth it – a wine lover’s adventure). Take a look at my photographs of our experience:

We sat outside on the terrace, overlooking the pristine pond.

 

Amuse bouche: crispy carrots on marinated tofu, pickled vegetables and garden greens, fresh flour tortillas, fried black beans.

 

Another amuse bouche: I didn’t make a note of what this delightful mouthful was, but if I remember correctly, it was smoked beetroot on goatscheese and a cheese biscuit.

 

More amuse bouche: Corn & cheese croquette.

 

Yet another extra treat from the kitchen, this was a type of crispy dome that covered a mushroom mousse (if I remember correctly!).

 

Last of the surprising bites coming from the kitchen: cauliflower fritter with pineapple salsa.

 

Wine pairings with our first course.

 

FIRST COURSE: Slow- cooked local octopus, fermented black garlic aioli, apple, squid ink crisp, radish, fynbos dressing. Served with Cavalli ‘Pink Pony’ Grenache Noir 2015. One of my favourite dishes of the day (not on the vegetarian menu).

 

FIRST COURSE (veg): Parsnip, truffle & honey velouté, 65°c free range egg,mushroom ragout, crispy enoki, smoked crème fraiche. Served with Cavalli ‘Pink Pony’ Grenache Noir 2015.

 

SECOND COURSE (regular & veg): Barley & mushrooms, parmesan custard. Served with Cavalli Cremello.

 

A closer look of the barley risotto (second course).

 

Palate cleanser: raspberry & pineapple sorbet, white chocolate, lemon curd.

 

THIRD COURSE: Confit duck leg, orange, fennel marmalade,mustard pommes mousseline, black kale. Served with Cavalli Warlord.

 

THIRD COURSE (veg): Bean puree, charred broccoli, homemade coconut yoghurt, toasted nuts, kale crisp. Served with Cavalli Warlord. This was one of my favourite dishes of the day. I’ll eat vegetarian forever if it tastes like this!

 

Cavalli’s Cremello white blend was one of my favourite wines of the day.

 

One of the international pairings of the day, in Schalk’s glass, from the Nappa Valley in California. Look at that colour!

 

FOURTH COURSE: Tonka bean crème caramel, palmiers.

 

After the dessert, we also enjoyed two petit fours each, served with coffee. This winter set menu is exceptional value and a must on your winter calendar. Sit back and enjoy premium Winelands hospitality at an affordable rate.

The winter menu is available from 1 May – 30 of September 2019 for lunch/dinner at R350 for the 4-course menu, R425 with Cavalli wine pairing and the 4-course vegetarian menu at R300 or R375 paired with Cavalli wine. Bookings are limited to a maximum of 15 guests.Cavalli Restaurant is open from Wednesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, as well as Sundays for lunch only. For bookings email the reservation team on restaurant@cavalliestate.com

Cavalli Estate is situated at R44 Highway (Strand Road), Somerset West.

Tel: 021 855 3218

Email: info@cavalliestate.com

Wine tasting is offered from Wednesday to Sunday, 10am-6pm. Tasting fee of R60 for five premium wines, R40 for ‘Passions’ wines. For bookings or further information send a mail to wines@cavalliestate.com.

High Tea is offered in The Conservatory from Wednesday to Sunday, 12pm – 3pm. R220 per person, with a minimum of 10 guests. 

Stable tours are offered on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, from 11am – 12pm. 

Carriage rides (one hour) across the estate are available on request, and can carry up to four passengers. R2000 per carriage, including a bottle of Cavalli Estate wine. For bookings send a mail to stables@cavalliestate.com or call 021 855 3218.

The Cavalli Private Collection of South African Masters is frequently rotated in the portico situated within the main gallery and two memorabilia rooms allocated in close proximity showcase a remarkable collection of rugby and sporting memorabilia.

The gallery at Cavalli is open from Wednesday to Sunday from 10am to 6pm.​ For all enquiries or a catalogue of available artwork, please contact gallery@cavalliestate.com or call 021 855 3218.

 

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Welcoming the new Winter set menu from Terroir

28 May

Chef Michael Broughton of Terroir. Photography by Mark Hoberman.

 

Every Winter, Terroir Restaurant at Kleine Zalze in Stellenbosch announces the start of the colder season with a fresh new set menu. This year, diners will once again receive incredible value where they can choose from either a two-course option at R295 per person or three courses at R395 per person (including vegetarian options). This price also includes two glasses of Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection wines served with the starter and main courses.

I recently had the pleasure of getting a taste of the new Winter set menu alongside a table of industry friends, hosted by chef Michael Broughton, Klein Zalze cellarmaster Alastair Rimmer and Lise Manley of Manley Communications. The Winter set menu at Terroir is an annual highlight for me and for many diners in and around Stellenbosch, and this year’s menu is a must-do on the Winter calendar. Take a tour through my photographs of my lunch experience, and be sure not to miss the show-stopping pistachio soufflé when you visit Terroir.

I shared a table with some wonderful industry peers & friends, but also had the pleasure of sitting next to Kleine Zalze cellarmaster Alaistair Rimmer (left). The wine pairings are part of the success of this package – don’t miss out.

 

As always, Terroir bread boards are served with their own sour dough bread, flatbread, olives, paté and butter.

 

Coconut cooked beef cheek doughnut with paprika and apricot jam – served with Kleine Zalze MCC Brut and Rosé NV. Such a stunning savoury and sweet amuse bouche.

 

Fennel cured and smoked trout with horseradish and Vichyssoise – served with Kleine Zalze Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2017. It was great to see a “fresher” starter choice as part of a winter menu.

 

Braised shoulder and grilled rack of Karoo lamb “au jus” with Fregola, pickled mustard seeds, peas and bagna cauda – served with Kleine Zalze Whole bunch Syrah 2017. Chef Michael does lamb very well, and his sauce skills are uncontested.

 

One of the side dishes as part of the main course – zucchini tempura. Stunning!

 

Poached pineapple, scented Catalan Crème with vanilla and saffron ice cream.

 

Pistachio soufflé with milk ice cream and vanilla caramel – served with Stellenrust Chenin d’ Muscat Noble Late Harvest 2015. My dish of the day. A must have.

 

And just because the pistachio soufflé was that good, here’s another view of it. One of the best soufflé’s I’ve had in years.

 

The winter special offer is valid from 2 May to 30 September 2019, for both lunch and dinner (max 10 pax per booking). Individual à la carte orders can still be made, and will be charged at the listed menu price.

Terroir is open for lunch from Tuesdays to Sundays from 12h00 – 14h30 and for dinner from Tuesdays to Saturdays from 18h30 – 21h00. Advance reservations are highly recommended. To book call 021 880-8167 or email restaurant@kleinezalze.co.za

Please note that Terroir will be closed for their annual winter break from 17th June 2019 and re-opening on the 10th of July 2019.

Kleine Zalze Wines and Terroir restaurant are situated on Strand Road (R44), Stellenbosch, South Africa.

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JAN comes home to open KLEIN JAN in the Kalahari

24 May

Jan Hendrik at a bush camp fire. (Photograph supplied.)

 

Born and raised on a farm in Mpumalanga, South African Michelin-star Chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen always knew he would one day return to the bush – to the campfires and the open skies of his home land. With a shared passion and vision for all things South African, a global partnership with the Oppenheimer family has led to this incredible new project that celebrates the unexplored culinary territory of the vast Kalahari.

KLEIN JAN will open its doors at Tswalu Kalahari, a first class unspoiled refuge that celebrates the simple, authentic splendours of this unique land. Driven by the values of local authenticity, heritage and sustainability of the environment, KLEIN JAN will become the place where this specific region’s culinary offering will be translated into world-class cuisine. Discovering this unexplored culinary territory with its unlimited potential has been a dream of Jan Hendrik’s for years.

In addition, JAN Innovation Studio will be opening its doors in Cape Town, where a team of chefs and students will continually develop and innovate South African cuisine. The Cape Town team will share their findings with their colleagues at Michelin star restaurant JAN in Nice, France, which will remain Jan Hendrik’s “mother ship”. In addition, South African diners can look forward to a series of pop-up dinners where they will be able to taste what Jan Hendrik and his teams have been up to.

JAN Innovation Studio will also be home to JAN the JOURNAL, a biannual publication that shares Jan Hendrik’s ideas, passion and curiosity about the culinary world. This collector’s book is available in both South Africa and in Europe.

I had the pleasure of talking to Jan Hendrik about his new plans a few weeks ago (see the video below), and to spend some one-on-one time with a young South African food icon and pioneer in his field. It was utterly refreshing to experience Jan Hendrik’s solid sense of self and his brilliant sense of humour. What a delightful conversation! I hope you enjoy the video – we shared a few light hearted moments that I’ll treasure forever.

#kleinjan #tswalu #JAN

 

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Review: The Germanicum Arminius by Sternsteiger

15 Apr

A year ago, I reviewed the Achilles chef’s knife by Sternsteiger of Solingen, Germany. I’ve been using the knife almost daily, and it is still one of the top performing knives in my kitchen. Now meet the brand new addition to Sternsteiger’s stable: the Germanicum Arminius, a new generation Damascus chef’s knife.

If you are unfamiliar with Damascus steel: it is named after the forged steel comprising the blades of swords smithed in the Near East from ingots of wootz steel imported from India and Sri Lanka (3rd – 17th century). These swords were characterized by distinctive patterns of banding and mottling reminiscent of flowing water, and were reputed to be tough, resistant to shattering and capable of being honed to a sharp, resilient edge. It appears that the original method of making Damascus steel blades had been lost over time (ceased around 1750), but has regained popularity in recent modern knife making with new techniques.

The steel is named after Damascus, the capital city of Syria and one of the largest cities in the ancient Levant. The Germanicum Arminius knife was named after a famous German warrior of the mid century. The knife has 440 layers of steel (15N20 and 1084). A special coating is applied to the knife to keep it sharp and more rigid. Designed by the award winning knife designer UBUTT DESIGN GERMANY, the Germanicum has a Spanish walnut wood handle and a HRC hardness of 58-59.

The knife is lighter than most of my other chef’s knives (188 g, compared to around 220 g), which makes it unintimidating and easy to handle. The round wooden handle feels warm and comfortable.
As this knife is not made of stainless steel, it must be hand washed only, dried and oiled after each usage. This is a spectacular, hand forged steel & natural wood item made with the utmost precision and skill, and it deserves special care.
This is a stunning addition to my kitchen knife range and I cannot wait to spend more time with this knife. Purchase your Germanicum Arminius chef’s knife here (via Kickstarter), for the price of €92. Paring knife and bread knife also available. Have a look at Sternsteiger’s video for more info:

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Dinner at VADAS, Spier

21 Mar

The glass paneled area at VADAS, where we were seated for dinner.

 

November 2018 marked the opening of VADAS Smokehouse & Bakery at Spier outside Stellenbosch. This eatery replaced its predecessor, a local branch of The Hoghouse – a much loved destination of my family and circle of friends. We were happy to learn that PJ Vadas, previous head chef at The Hoghouse at Spier, was also the new chef/ower of VADAS Smokehouse & Bakery. This hopefully meant that the greatness of the place as a whole would be continued at some level!

Little did we know just how great it would be.

We were recently invited to experience dinner at VADAS, where I had the opportunity to order a good selection of items from their informal tick-box menu. Although we’ve been to VADAS quite a few times since it’s opening, this dinner was the best experience yet. The team has settled into a groove with very good service too. So what can you expect? In PJ’s words: “VADAS Smokehouse & Bakery is run by a group of long-time friends and colleagues with a shared passion for food and great service. The vision for the new restaurant is to create a place where families and friends can join together and eat food that is carefully, ethically and healthily sourced and prepared. VADAS believes in supporting local, quality-driven businesses and practices farm-to-plate dining where simple dishes embrace and showcase the quality of produce.”

In food terms, it is lip-smackingly tasty food, prepared simply but with the utmost attention to detail and a fine know-how that will show off their skills and unique smokehouse offerings to the next level.

Chef PJ Vadas has a colourful and decorated background in high end fine dining kitchens around the world, including holding the reigns at local jewels like The Roundhouse (has since reopened at Salsify at The Roundhouse) in Camps Bay and Camphors at Vergelegen a few years ago. He has now settled in as the rightful king of relaxed, authentic smokehouse dining the the Cape Winelands.

Take a look at my pictures below, with comments. We visited on a gloomy (cool, overcast and windy) evening and were seated at a cosy table in their glass paneled indoor area with open air vents at the top, making you feel like you’re still in nature. During the colder months, this will most probably where you’ll be seated as opposed to the outdoor seating next to the lawn – which is great during the warmer months, especially for families with young kids.

This area at VADAS is perfect for cooler weather, but it can also be opened up completely during warmer months. You are surrounded by massive oak trees, cobbled walkways, trimmed hedges and beautiful lawns.

The seating area next to the service station indoors.

At the front: Smoked pork belly with apple ketchup (100g portion).

Clockwise from the top: Smoked brisket and BBQ sauce, pickles, special of the day (meaty croquettes with cheese and ham, served with a herby green dipping sauce), Fried chicken with garlic aioli.

Closeup of the beef brisket (100g). Super smokey and really tender.

Beets with feta, grapes, pistachio dukkha and pickled fennel flowers.

Sourdough bread and butter with hummus.

Smoked harissa chicken wings with pomegranate and yoghurt dressing.

Pork fat fried chips and truffle aioli (at the back), Fire roasted broccoli, mustard cider vinaigrette and macadamia & smoked cheddar. The broccoli is my favourite item on the menu. It is HUGE, and it is so incredibly satisfying.

A closeup of the broccoli (see full description above) with the reveal of the hidden treasures underneath the cheese. A sublime vegetarian dish.

The must-have chocolate gelato. Don’t miss it.

View from the outside of the glass paneled area where we were seated. This is situated on the opposite side from the front lawn, where kids usually roam free on a beautiful summers day.

Gloomy outside, cosy inside. VADAS is a great place for lunch and dinner, any time of the year.

 

VADAS is one of my favourite eateries in the Stellenbosch region, simply because the food is that good. They’re consistent too. It’s a destination type of place, so plan to spend a few hours there and don’t be rushed. The Moro gelato is a múst – probably the best chocolate ice cream in the Winelands. At R50 per scoop it might seem pricey, but it is made the original Italian way, incredibly silky in texture, and enough for one person. I never leave without having some.

PS: Also, take some freshly baked bread and pastries home after dinner – they make the BEST pasteis de nata you’ll ever have outside of Portugal.

VADAS Kitchen operation hours:

Monday – Saturday: 12h00 – 15h00 & 18h00 – 21h00

Sundays: 12h00 – 15h00

Friday evening pizzas: 18h00-21h00

See a sample menu here. Tapas-style dishes range between R45-180, some charged per 100g portions.

Contact: +27 (21) 809 1137 or visit www.vadas.co.za to book.

Location: VADAS is situated on Spier Farm, Baden Powell Drive, outside Stellenbosch.

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